Wag Reflex

Is Organic Pet Food Better?

Most owners want to feed the “best” food to their pets so many people are turning to organic foods. Organic food sales for pets have grown three times the rate of human organic foods according to the Organic Trade Association. But just because it’s organic does that mean it's better for your pet?

There are many advantages to organic pet foods. They do not contain any preservatives, artificial flavorings or artificial colors. They do not contain any growth hormones or antibiotics. There are no fillers and they are often higher in antioxidants than commercial diets. All of these things make the foods more nutritious, more palatable and easier to digest. Many owners report that these diets seem to help boost the pet’s immunity and can even improve some allergies.

With all that being said however, there are no scientific studies or evidence that organic foods are more beneficial. A big disadvantage to organic pet foods is that they are considerably more expensive than regular commercial diets. They can also be hard to find on a regular basis.

Basically, what it all comes down to is that each individual pet owner needs to weigh the pros and cons of organic pet food and decide what is best for his pet and his wallet.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Biotene Water Additive

Ever wish there was a product you could use on your pets that would help keep their teeth clean and their breath fresh without brushing? Well, guess what....now there is!

Biotene Drinking Water Additive is one of may favorite things. It's a colorless, flavorless liquid that you mix with your pet’s water. This product contains a patented enzyme system that inhibits and reduces plaque formation. It also stops the growth of odor causing microorganisms and will leave your pet with fresh breath and a healthy mouth.

It is recommended to start this product with a clean mouth. So you should begin it’s use when the pet is young or after the teeth have been cleaned thoroughly under anesthesia.

Biotene Drinking Water Additive can be purchased here.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

All About Ear Infections

Ear infections are a common condition in dogs and to a lesser extent cats. The two most common types of ear infections are otitis externa (infection of the external ear canal) and otitis media (infection of the middle ear). Certain breeds are dogs are more prone to ear infections due to their lifestyle or the structure of their ear canals. Those dogs with very long floppy ears or very hairy ears seem to get infections more frequently. Most ear infections are easily treated, but if left untreated, they can result in serious damage and pain.

Ear infections are often secondary to other factors. Wax accumulation, matted hair, foreign bodies, allergies, mites, or tumors can all predispose an animal to ear infections. Signs of an infection include shaking the head, scratching the ears, or displaying a head tilt. There is often excess discharge from the ears, they may be red and inflamed, as well as may have an offensive odor.

A good ear exam will involve the veterinarian using an otoscope – an instrument that provides light and magnification-to view the ear canal. A video otoscope can be used for further visibility as well as to allow you to actually see inside the ear as well. Using the otoscope, the veterinarian can determine if the ear drum is intact and if any foreign material is in the canal. The next step is to take a sample or smear of material from the ear canal to be viewed under a microscope. This is called a cytology and allows the veterinarian to determine the organism causing the infection and thus determine proper treatment.

On some occasions, sedation may be required to either remove foreign material or to cleanse the ear canal. Middle ear infections may require further diagnostics as well. Treatment may be required for two weeks up to two months depending on the type of infection, the portion of the ear infected, and the severity of the infection. The key is to be sure to treat until the infection is fully resolved or it will simply “return”. Once the infection has resolved, your veterinarian can advise you on simple preventative measures to help reduce the chances of further infections. Pets with chronic ear problems will require life-long preventative measures to ensure their comfort and good health.

If you believe your pet may be suffering from an ear infection, please call your veterinarian today to schedule an exam.

Photo courtesy of Northern Merigold's photostream.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Skip the Knife--Try Shock Wave Therapy

In recent years a new treatment method called Extracorporeal Shock Wave Therapy (ESWT) has been available to veterinary patients after showing promising results in humans. Although it sounds a bit scary, the shock waves are actually high-energy, focused sound waves that speed healing of a range of problems including bone fractures, ligament injuries, and even arthritis. Because doctors can skip the scalpel with this treatment method, patients do not develop additional scar tissue which is often a painful side effect to surgery.

ESWT was first used for human patients in the early 1990s. By the latter part of this decade veterinarians began utilizing these sound waves for treating musculoskeletal disorders in horses with excellent results. Riding on the wave of this success, experimental treatment then began in dogs suffering from orthopedic conditions. In 2003 a survey of veterinarians that were using ESWT in dogs found that about 70 percent of their clients reported a “remarkable” response.

While formal studies on the canine population are currently limited, ESWT may likely benefit your dog if they suffer from osteoarthritis, hip dysplasia, or tendonitis. Results appear strongest for injuries to the shoulders, back, and hips. ESWT is also used to treat another highly common injury in dogs: cruciate ligament tears. For this affliction, ESWT may be used to speed healing from surgical treatment or, in some cases, as a substitute for surgery altogether. Also, ESWT can be used either alone or in conjunction with other types of therapies like hydrotherapy and acupuncture.

The procedure itself can be painful so dogs are usually placed under anesthesia or heavy sedation before the shock waves are administered. Most dog owners notice marked improvement within a week of treatment. A second round of shock waves is typically needed a few weeks later then annual or biannual treatments may be performed to maintain good results.

If you think ESWT could help your dog, consult your veterinarian. Before shock wave therapy can be used on your pet a thorough physical examination must be performed. Each patient also must be healthy enough to receive anesthesia. Although ESWT is generally considered safe, it is important to remember it is still an experimental procedure.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Watch Out for Ticks

Lyme disease is a bacterial disease spread by ticks. While it is most prevalent in the Northeastern U.S., it has been found in almost every state. The name comes from the place where the disease was first reported, Lyme, Connecticut. Lyme disease affects people and dogs. It is rare in other domestic animals.

Lyme disease is caused by the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi. It is transmitted by the bite of ticks, most commonly the black-legged deer tick (Ixodes species). Wooded, brushy areas outdoors are likely locations for these ticks. The tick attaches to a host and feeds on it’s blood. While attached, it can spread Lyme disease through it’s saliva. Research has shown that in most cases, the disease is not transmitted until the tick has been attached to the host for 48 to 72 hours. Lyme disease is not spread directly from one person to another or from a dog to a person.

Symptoms of Lyme disease are rash, fever, lethargy, swollen lymph nodes, loss of appetite, swollen joints and limping. Some infected dogs do not show any outward symptoms however, the disease can also cause inflammation of the kidneys, and can damage the heart and nervous system in later stages. Some cases of Lyme disease in dogs can be detected on a physical exam, but tests of blood or joint fluid are often needed.

Lyme disease is treated with antibiotics like doxycycline. Additional medications may be prescribed to help with pain and inflammation. The course of treatment is usually a minimum of 6 weeks but may be as long as 12 weeks. It is possible for the organism to remain in the body long-term leading to periodic flare-ups.

Whenever possible avoid areas likely to be infested with ticks.  If you do frequent tick-infested areas, check yourself and your dog carefully for ticks once you leave. Your veterinarian can recommend some excellent tick control products that are safe for dogs.

A vaccination against Lyme disease is available for dogs. It is recommended for dogs living in areas where the disease is prevalent. Check with your veterinarian to see if your dog should be vaccinated.

Photo courtesy of Pediatric Associates of Connecticut.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Why Does My Pet Shed So Much?

Hair grows from tiny roots called follicles. Hair follicles contain both a long individual strand of hair (primary hair) and multiple short, fine hairs (secondary hairs). The process of shedding in cats and dogs occurs because each individual hair goes through a growth cycle and is then released. After release, it is replaced with a new hair and the process repeats.

In pets, many factors can affect shedding. Most commonly we think of the effect of day length and temperature on coats. Shorter days and cooler temperatures stimulate the follicles and result in a thicker coat. Conversely, longer days and warmer temperatures lead to increased shedding with the cycle peaking around mid-summer.

Many of our pets today live inside throughout the year, and they are not subjected to a variety of temperature or light changes. Instead of experiencing a large difference between the highest and lowest times of shedding, these cats and dogs tend to shed at a consistently high level year round. This pattern of coat turnover requires more attention through the entire year instead of only during peak shedding times.

One key in the management of shedding is good grooming. Many groomers offer shedding treatments that help reduce hair turnover for a period of time. Frequent trips to the groomer for routine bathing and brushing will help remove hairs in the final stage of the growth cycle and lessen the amount that is shed into the pet’s environment. In between grooming visits, brushing at home also helps.

On the nutrition front, the goal is to provide the nutrients necessary to keep the hair as healthy as possible and prevent premature hair separation. Hair growth may demand 30% of total protein intake, so an adequate amount of high level protein is important. Certain B vitamins like biotin and folic acid play a role in the formation of hair. Key minerals and fatty acids also help nourish the coat. A deficiency in any of these essential nutrients can result in poor coat quality, excess shedding, and slower hair re-growth.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Dealing with the Summer Heat

Most people see the summer months as a time to get outside with the family and do a variety of recreational activities. Whether it’s hiking in the woods or swimming at the park, the entire family can be included, even your four-legged friend.

As the weather begins to break and spring turns into summer, dog owners are advised to use moderation when resuming their outdoor activities. Most veterinarians will tell you that dogs who lead a sedentary lifestyle during the off-season are in a high risk group when spring and summer time comes around.

1. Limit Activity and Plan Accordingly
Moderation is the key to properly conditioning dogs for summertime activities. You would never think of going out and running 5 miles the first time you go running. Instead, you would start slowly and over the course of months you would build up to your ultimate goal. The same principles hold true when exercising your dogs. Limit your initial activities and gradually increase the duration over time.

It is also important to plan your activities during the cooler times of day. Early morning and late afternoon are ideal times to get out and enjoy time with your dog. If you’re thinking of take your dog for a daily walk, early morning is the best time. Eight hours of the sun pounding down of the sidewalks and asphalt can really make it uncomfortable for your four-legged friend. Your dog’s pads can quickly burn when exposed to the hot blacktop.

If your dog has long or double coat, a summer haircut can help dissipate body heat. Make sure when you bring your dog to the groomer he/she does not cut your dog’s hair too short as this will greatly increase the chance of sunburn. Just like humans, dogs can be burned by the sun so it’s important to limit your activity to times when the sun is most intense. Typically the midday (between 11 am and 3 pm) is the time when the sun is at its highest point and its rays are the most harmful to you and your dog. Like humans, dogs with lighter colored coats tend to be fairer skinned and more sensitive to the sun’s harmful rays.

2. Keeping Your Dog Cool
When a humans get hot we sweat. It’s through sweat that we are able to cool our bodies. Dogs perspire through their mouths by panting. The hotter they get the more they pant. Even though dogs don’t sweat and benefit from the thermal transfer of heat through sweat, you can help your dog overcome the effects of heat by keeping him in an area with moving air. The air blowing across his body will help keep him cool through radiation and conduction.

Shade, Shade, Shade!  Be sure there are trees, a picnic table, a covered patio, etc around you so your dog can retreat to if he wants to. Dogs know what shade is, and they will absolutely find it if it exists.

You need to make sure your dog has a cold source of fresh water the entire time he is outside. If you are going to be out for a long time, you need to make sure there’s enough water to last. And in the heat you will need a lot of water.

There are products designed specifically to help keep your pet cool.  Miracool Mats is a unique, reusable, cooling pad that helps keep dogs cool on hot summer days. Water-activated crystals keep mat cool for days with one 30-minute soaking in cold water.

Kool Collars are also an extremely effective, unique dog cooling product. The Kool Collar uses melting ice to act as sweat on your dog. It's easy, durable and extremely effective.

3. Recognizing Heat-Related Problems
The onset of heat stroke can be quite subtle and difficult to detect. Your dog may slowly progress from heat stress to heat exhaustion and finally to heat stroke. In addition to an increase in the dog’s body temperature from a normal temperature of 101.3, the signs of heat related problems are labored breathing, excessive panting, bright red gums, fatigue sometimes leading to collapse and even unconsciousness. It is important to get your dog out of the heat as soon as possible at the first signs of heat related problems.

It’s also advisable to wet your dog down with cool, tepid water or applying cool towels directly to his body to help dissipate the heat. Please note, you DO NOT want to bath your dog in ice cold water. This will cause your dog’s blood vessels to restrict and will cause a slower recovery time. In the event of an emergency, seek medical attention for your dog immediately, even if he seems to have fully recovered.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Make The Most of Your Veterinary Appointment

You always have the best intentions when you take your pet to the vet. Whether you are proactively bringing in your dog for his annual exam and vaccines, or bringing in your cat after a bout of vomiting and diarrhea; ultimately, you care about your pet and want to do what is in their best interest. It is all too often the case, however, that pet owners leave their veterinarian’s office feeling disappointed and frustrated by the experience. Perhaps your veterinarian didn’t address all of your concerns. Perhaps they didn’t address any of them or worse, they seemed to address problems you didn’t even know existed. Suddenly, fifteen minutes later, you’re walking out the door with nothing but an irritated pet and a big fat bill. So much for good intentions.

Luckily, this isn’t the way it has to be. There are a few simple steps that every pet owner can take to ensure that their time at the vet’s office is time well spent.

Make Time
One of the biggest complaints people have about their veterinary visits is not getting to spend enough time talking to the vet. You might think that this is out of your control. How can you help it if the vet has twenty other clients in the waiting room and has to rush you through? Well, actually, it’s pretty easy. Schedule your appointment for a time when you know this will not be the case, or book a longer appointment. Some vets will allow you to book a longer appointment (at a surcharge) say 30 minutes. If this is for a normal pet exam, it gives you plenty of time to ask questions and not feel rushed or pressured. The busiest times at most veterinary clinics are early morning and evening appointments (the times before and after people have to go to work). People schedule these appointments for their apparent convenience, but instead end up with longer waiting times and less quality time with the veterinarian. If you make your appointment for mid-day, the veterinarian will be less pressured to move you through quickly and your experience will be more worthwhile. Do not try to squeeze an appointment in over your lunch break. Then you will be the one checking the time and hurrying the appointment!

State Your Objectives
Your veterinarian will likely start your appointment by asking you the reason for your visit. Although you may have one primary concern, there are likely a number of additional issues which you would like for your veterinarian to address. Sure, your cat is due for vaccines, but you’ve also noticed that she’s been urinating a lot and that she seems to have gained some weight. These are not things that your vet will necessarily be able to detect during his physical exam unless you make a point of mentioning these concerns. This will not only leave you feeling dissatisfied, but more importantly, will potentially compromise your pet’s health. Writing out a list for yourself prior to the appointment can ensure that you don’t miss anything. Then, let your veterinarian decide which issue is the most pressing (you might think your cat’s limp is the biggest problem, but when you mention her frequent urination and weight gain, the possibility of diabetes becomes the number one health concern).   

Be Specific
Especially for those appointments under strict time constraints, being as specific as possible will help both you and your veterinarian save time and stay on task. For example, when you say your dog is limping what do you mean? Which leg is he limping on? How long has it been going on? Is it constant or intermittent? Was there an obvious event that may have caused the injury? Has he ever had a limp before? Was it the same leg? The more specific you are in your initial description, the less time your veterinarian will have to spend asking these sorts of questions. Also, be careful not to interpret symptoms or jump to any conclusions. It is always tempting to try to find a diagnosis for your pet as soon as possible, but if you are stuck on your own idea of what the problem is, it may end up distracting the vet from what is really going on.

Ask Questions
Undoubtedly the most important thing any pet owner can do is ask questions. Don’t forget that your appointment is just that--yours. It is your pet, your money, and your time, and it is absolutely your right to ask questions if there is anything you are uncomfortable or unsure about. This includes asking one of the most dreaded questions: how much will it cost? Nobody wants to put a dollar value on their pet, and people feel extremely guilty about asking these kinds of questions. In reality, however, this will likely be an important factor in determining what treatments will and will not be a possibility for your pet. Going along with everything your vet says, only to realize later that you can’t afford even half of it, is not going to lead to the best outcome for your pet.

Be A Good Communicator
Finally, don’t let your appointment be ruined over simple miscommunication. If you missed something your vet said, by all means, ask them to repeat it. If they throw in too much medical jargon, make sure you get them to translate for you. Too often pet owners feel embarrassed asking these sorts of questions. If anything, your veterinarian will feel embarrassed for not communicating as effectively as he/she should have, and will be impressed that you are taking your pet’s health so seriously. 

Not all veterinarians are expert communicators, and not all veterinary clinics have time for hour long appointments but all caring, responsible pet owners deserve an appointment that they can feel good about. By remembering these simple steps you can ensure that your next vet visit is a good one, and that you and your pet are getting the kind of care you both deserve.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

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Should You Remove Your Dog's Dewclaws?

Many dog owners often ask their veterinarian whether their dog's dewclaws should be removed. There are several situations in which removal is advantageous, and owners should consider their dog's lifestyle when making such a decision.

The dewclaw is the digit on the innermost part of the foot. It does not make contact with the ground. Most dogs will have dewclaws on their front feet when born however it is rare to find them on the back feet. This digit is considered a vestigial structure that is non-functional in most breeds. However in several breeds, such as the Great Pyrenees and Briards, rear dewclaws are common and included in the breed standard. The Great Pyrenees even has a double dewclaw, an inherited trait called polydactylism, so that there are two bony digits instead of one. The Great Pyrenees is a livestock guardian dog and the terrain they work on is rough and uneven. The double dewclaws placed low on their rear legs act as functional digits to help them gain stability. However, in other breeds of dogs that do have a rear dewclaw, it is often hanging loose and susceptible to being torn off. This is the main reason why it is sometimes recommended to remove the rear dewclaws, especially if the dog is going to be running outdoors in the brush (like hunting dogs).

Some breeders have their puppies dewclaws removed at 3-5 days of age. At this age, the dewclaw is adhered loosely so it is very easy to remove. The veterinarian will clamp at the base of the dewclaw at the joint and this is often enough to allow for manual removal. Surgical glue or sutures are then used to close the wound and prevent bleeding, although there is little bleeding associated with this procedure. If the breeder has decided to allow the dewclaws to remain, you will need to make a decision around the time of your puppy's spay or neuter as to whether the dewclaws should be removed. Factors to consider are where your dog will be spending his/her time, if your dog has rear dewclaws and the degree of adherence of the dewclaws. Any dewclaw loosely adhered should be removed, regardless of whether the dog will be in nature or walking on city sidewalks since loose dewclaws can catch onto anything and become torn.

Veterinarians prefer to remove dewclaws during the spay/neuter because the dog will already be under general anesthesia so it eliminates the risks associated with another anesthesia. If you are considering showing your dog in the ring, it is advisable to consult the breed standard of the kennel club you are associated with. Most state that removal is optional though there are a few breeds where dewclaws are required and some in which dewclaw removal is mandatory.

Many dog owners often leave the front dewclaws for the reason that they are usually held close to the paw so need not be removed. However, this does not mean that they should be forgotten. They are easily missed due to their location and it doesn't help if the dog has long hair which covers it! Dewclaws should be trimmed during routine nail trims. This is especially important because these claws cannot be worn down since they do not make ground contact. If left untrimmed, the claw grows in a curly fashion, which may be uncomfortable or even painful because the claw may grow around into the skin. It also makes trimming extremely difficult.

If your dog has dewclaws, you may wish to consult with your veterinarian as to whether they should be removed, taking into consideration your dog's lifestyle. Dewclaws not removed should be maintained during the routine nail trim to prevent overgrowth of the claw.

Photo of a broken dewclaw from This Year's Love's photostream.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Boating with Dogs

Do you ever take your dog out on the boat when you go wakeboarding or waterskiing? Here are some tips that will make your day on the water safe and enjoyable for everyone.

Personal Flotation Device (PFD)
People are not the only ones who should wear a PDF (life jacket) while boating. You wouldn't want anything to happen to your dog, would you? Don't assume all dogs can swim, because they can't. And those that can swim may not be great swimmers. If your dog falls overboard, will he/she be able to avoid exhaustion or hypothermia before they can be retrieved? Believe it or not, there are PFD's made just for dogs. My personal favorite is Outward Hound's Pet Saver Life Jacket that can be purchased on Amazon.com.  Make sure the PFD fits securely and allow your dog to practice swimming while wearing it. If your dog has never worn a PFD they may be resistant to it at first. Give them time to get acquainted with it before actually getting him out on the boat.

Fresh Drinking Water
Always have enough fresh drinking water available for your dog. Canines lose fair amounts of body fluid when they pant, so be sure to keep them hydrated. While moving and bouncing boats may not be the most practical place for a dog bowl, an alternative it to allow your dog to drink out of a sports bottle, which are less messy and you can squirt water right into their mouth. Don't be afraid to force your dog to drink water. Think how much better fluids make you feel on a hot day out on the water.

Sun and Heat
Excessive sun exposure can cause heat problems for animals. Just as with humans, they include sun stroke, heat cramps, and heat exhaustion. Provide a shaded are for your pet. Again, give them plenty of water. Let them take a dip in the water to cool themselves down if necessary. Boat surfaces, such as fiberglass, can get extremely hot in the sun. Dogs absorb heat through the pads on their feet so be sure to protect them.

Bathroom Breaks
Try to train your dog to go to the bathroom in a specific spot.  I have found that indoor/outdoor carpeting works best. Train your dog on shore to use it and then just transfer the carpet to the boat. It is easy to clean which is a bonus!  Of course you can always take your dog ashore to do his business.

Inexperienced Dogs
If you've never brought your dog out on a boat, don't assume they will enjoy boating. They often prefer still and stable surfaces. A day or so before you plan on taking your dog boating, allow them to get acquainted with the boat while it is still on the trailer or at dock. This is also a good time to let them wear their PFD for the first time. Your next step is to crank the engine since it may be an unfamiliar sound to your dog. Make your first outing on the water a short one just to allow your pet to get acclimated to boat movement. Humans get seasick so there is no reason to think your pet will not do the same. If your dog does become seasick take them ashore right away and contact your veterinarian for advice on how to prevent future episodes of seasickness as there are medications that can be prescribed for this purpose.

Photo of the nautical dachshund from puppypfd's photostream.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

All About Hairballs

Hairballs in cats should be taken seriously as many serious problems can arise if they are left untreated. If your cat cannot rid itself of a hairball through defecating or vomiting the hairball may cause a blockage in the intestinal tract. Severe cases of cat hairballs can be life-threatening and may need to be removed surgically. Some common signs of a hairball problem are loss of appetite, vomiting, straining to defecate (constipation) or an increase in the number of hairballs you are finding around the house.

How do Cats Get Hairballs?
Hairballs are formed due to ingestion of too much hair. Cats with long hair are especially susceptible just due to the nature of their coat (long strands of hair) and these cats also have to groom more often to keep themselves clean and free of matts. This does mean that cats with short hair don't get hairballs as hairballs can also be caused by a behavioral problem. Often times, cats that develop hairballs are either compulsive, bored or stressed out. Sometimes they are grooming themselves excessively due to a flea infestation or allergy. You can help this behavior by using a monthly flea prevention and by redirecting their energy and attention to fun activities such as playing and giving them things to play in and around (like boxes, hiding tubes and scratching posts).

Prevention is the Key
An oral laxative, like Laxatone, coats any swallowed hair and contains a lubricant for easy digestion. Diets that are especially formulated to prevent hairballs, like Science Diet Hairball Control, work great and are very palatable. I would recommend the use of these products for anyone who owns a long-haired cat even if they aren't currently having any problems with hairballs. Cat treats with hairball remedy are also available however, there is usually not enough laxative in the treats to be effective. Regular grooming is also an great way to prevent hairballs. Brush your cat as often as possible to get rid of excess hair. By doing this you will decrease the amount of hair your cat will swallow.

Photo from lillyruth's photostream.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Yes, Catnip is Safe for Cats

Many clients ask me "What is catnip and is it safe for my cat?" Catnip is a perennial herb belonging to the mint family. Scientifically it is known as "Nepeta cataria". The plant is a weed-like mint that was introduced to North America from the Mediterranean. The active ingredient in catnip is called Nepetalactone for which cats have a special receptor. The response to this chemical is mediated through the olfactory (smell) system. Nepetalactone is thought to mimic the effects of phermones.

The response to catnip can be very dramatic in some cats: rolling, licking, rubbing, drooling, jumping, running, growling. Most of these behaviors will last 5-15 minutes. Other cats may appear to be sedated after exposure. Some very young or very old cats do not respond as much, or at all, to catnip. Approximately 25% of the cat population does not respond to catnip at all, at any age. This is due to genetics as reactions to catnip are hereditary. Some cats are genetically "programmed" to respond to catnip, some are not.

Despite all of the strange behaviors seen with catnip, it is completely non-toxic to cats. If a large quantity of fresh catnip is consumed, you may see some vomiting or diarrhea, but this is rare and self-limiting. If your cat experiences this, limit the amount of catnip he comes in contact with or withhold catnip all together.

Photo from elrina753's photostream.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

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The Top 5 Things Every Dog Should Have

Before you adopt a new pup, here are the top five things it should have.

1. Leash
Get a leash for your dog that keeps your dog safe.  Choose a length that allows for good control; six feet is recommended.

2. Bed
Dog beds not only prevent your dog from using your expensive furniture as a bed but they are actually good for them too! Dogs, especially large breeds, should not lie on hard surfaces as they can develop calluses or sores over bony protrusions (such as the elbow). Dogs with arthritis can really benefit from therapeutic dog beds that are made for this purpose.  Many are heated and have extra cushion for aching joints.

3. Toys
Games allow us to build a relationship with our pets through play, and toys are an important part of these games. Buy toys that lets your dog mimic hunting behaviors like retrieving, herding and guarding. Also, chew toys like Kongs are essential to prevent your dog from chewing your belongings.

4. Crate
As well as giving your dog a safe, cozy place to stay, crates can make training your dog a lot easier. Housebreaking goes much faster when you use a crate and destructive chewing becomes easier to control. Traveling is also safer for both you and your dog when he's in a crate.

5. Treats
Treats help reinforce the special bond between you and your dog, and are a good way to reinforce positive behavior. Treats are also a definite help during training.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Can Secondhand Smoke Harm Pets?

Simply put, the answer is yes. Tobacco smoke contains more than 4,000 chemical compounds, 43 of which are known to be carcinogens (cancer causing particles). While many studies have shown that exposure to these chemicals can increase people's chances of heart disease, lung cancer, and other cancers, some recent studies have shown that these chemicals also increase the risk of these diseases to pets.

Research performed at Colorado State University has documented that environmental tobacco smoke has a clear effect on dogs. Studies have shown that the more people smoke in a household, the higher their dogs' risk of developing certain kinds of cancer. Dogs with long noses are at an even greater risk of developing certain nasal and sinus cancer as they expose more tissue to the carcinogens when they inhale. CSU's research has also shown that the effects of exposure to secondhand smoke are lasting. Chemicals from cigarette smoke can be found in dogs bodies for a long period of time. In fact, measurable levels of carcinogens can be found in dogs hair and urine for months after exposure.

Another study by Tufts University showed that cats exposed to secondhand smoke have an increased chance of developing a type of oral cancer commonly found in smokers--called squamous cell carcinoma--possibly because the carcinogens in smoke can settle on cats' fur and cats can pick them up as they groom themselves.

Even if they don't develop cancer, pets can have strong reactions to smoke particles in the air. Just like their human families, pets can develop respiratory infections, lung inflammation, and asthma when exposed to secondhand smoke.

Photo from MyDearDogs' photostream.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

My Favorite Things--CET Enzymatic Oral Hygiene Chews

Having great oral health can be as simple as giving a daily treat. CET Enzymatic Oral Hygiene Chews are a rawhide-type chew. They contain an antibacterial agent and special enzymes that work together to control plaque and bacteria build-up on your pets teeth while they chew. This product is made for both dogs and cats. They are great tasting, easily digestible and an effective product to help keep you pet’s breath fresh and teeth clean.

Home dental care is as important for your pet as it is for you. A program of oral hygiene and regular professional care may help prevent problems that might occur as the result of plaque and tartar buildup. Make CET Enzymatic Oral Hygiene Chews part of your pet’s oral hygiene program. You’ll be glad you did!

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Why Dog Urine is Killing Your Lawn

Lawn burn is a common problem that results when your dog’s urine burns the grass in your lawn. If you have ever had to deal with this problem, you know how frustrating it is to deal with. The cause of lawn burn is the high nitrogen content that is present in dog urine. When the dog urinates, it is similar to pouring liquid fertilizer on the lawn. A little fertilizer is good for the grass, but an excess causes nitrogen burn. So, the prevention of lawn burn deals with trying to reduce the amount of nitrogen coming into contact with the grass.

Some contributing factors to the lawn burn problem:
- Owning a female dog. Females are more likely to cause lawn burn than males because they void their entire bladder in one location instead of lifting their leg and marking like male dogs.
- Owning a large breed dog. Larger dogs produce more urine so therefore, they have a larger chance of causing lawn burn.
- Feeding your dog a high protein diet. More protein in the diet causes more nitrogen to be passed in the urine.
- Lawns that are heavily fertilized are already receiving near maximum levels of nitrogen. Any extra amount of nitrogen in the dog urine may be all that is needed to cause lawn burn.

You can successfully treat and prevent lawn burn with these few simple steps:
- Saturate the urinated spots with water right after the pet urinates to dilute the urine.
- Feed a high quality dog food that does not exceed the pet's protein requirement.
- Plant urine-resistant grasses in your lawn like rye grasses and fescues.
- Don’t over fertilize your lawn.

Brown spots created by lawn burn are not a medical threat to your dog, however, they can be unsightly and potentially expensive to repair. By understanding the cause of these spots, and then making a few changes, you should be able to give your dog full range of the yard and still enjoy a trouble-free lawn!

Photo from orangetony77's photostream.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Feeding Fido on a Budget

Are you feeling the economic crunch? These days everyone is looking for ways to save money but it doesn’t mean you have to scrimp on your best friend’s food. Here are some tips to help you feed your dog on a budget without sacrificing quality.

1. Buy in Bulk
Buy the biggest bag of your dog’s brand of dog food. Usually the large bag is significantly cheaper per pound than the smaller bags. Buy an airtight container for storage which will keep it fresh. If you use canned food, buy a case at a time.

2. Split the Bag
Ask a friend or neighbor to split a large bag or case of food with you. This will make it cheaper for both of you.

3. Don’t Overfeed
Contact your veterinarian to see how much your pet should weigh. A simple calculation can be done to let you know how many calories a day your dog should be taking in based on his/her ideal weight. If your dog is overweight, now is the time for a diet!

4. Cut Out the Treats
Treats are mostly for the owners, not the dogs. Dogs honestly don’t care what they are getting when you give them a treat. They just care that they are getting something. So instead of spending money on expensive treats, use piece of his/her own kibble. Try it, you’ll see that your dog will be just as happy and you’ll save money too! This may also help with your dog’s waistline!

5. Coupons
Look for coupons in your local paper or on the internet for extra savings. Contact the company that makes your dog’s brand of food. Often times if you ask for coupons they will send them to you.

6. Don’t Change Diets
If at all possible, stick with your dog’s current brand of food. Many of the cheaper brands are full of empty calories and therefore, not as nutritious. Typically a dog needs to eat more of the “junk” food to get the same nutrition as they would from a premium brand. So, you will likely end up going through more food in the long run.

If you follow these simple tips both your wallet and your dog will be happy!

Photo from jocelyn postcrossing's photostream.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Happy Trails And Happy Tails

If you’re like me, you love to involve your dog in all your outdoor activities. My dog is my buddy and a great running companion. He makes me feel safe, he adjusts to whatever pace I set and he’s just happy to be with me.  He has trained with me for 5K’s, triathlons and marathons. If you want to get your dog to be your running partner, follow these tips to keep him safe, healthy and comfortable.

1. Definitely Wait Until Your Dog is Full-Grown.
Running with a puppy is not recommended.  This can cause damage to their cartilage, bones and growth plates. You should wait until your dog is at least a year old giving them time to mature.

2. Go slow in the beginning.
Start your dog out slowly, just like you would if you were new to running. Gradually increase the time and mileage. This will reduce the risk of injury. 

3. Use a leash.
Even if your dog is well-trained, he may still try to run off if he sees another dog or animal. If you don’t want to hold the leash you can purchase a hands-free running leash which attaches around your waist.

4. Keep Your Dog Hydrated.
Make sure you carry enough water for both you and your dog. Teach your dog how to drink from a water bottle or carry a portable doggie bowl to put water in. Watch for signs of heat stress or fatigue which include can include slowing down, weakness, inability to stand, glassy eyes, and foaming at the mouth.  If you notice any of these signs try to cool your dog down immediately with cold water and get him into the shade. If he doesn’t go back to normal within 10 minutes it is suggested to seek veterinary help.

5. Stick to Trails.
Whenever possible, run on the sidewalk or use well marked trails. Avoid heavily trafficked areas. 

6.  Use reflective material at night. 
When running in the fall and winter it is recommended that you use a reflective vest, collar and leash on your dog so he can be easily spotted by drivers, cyclists and other pedestrians

7. Check your dog for injuries.
Watch your dog for signs of limping or pain. Dogs can injure tendons and ligaments just like their human partners. Check all pads for any signs of blistering, laceration or excessive wear. Remember, your dog isn’t wearing shoes!

Follow these tips to help keep your dog safe and healthy while running! Happy Trails and Happy Tails!

Photo from treehuggin1's photostream.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Canine Parvovirus

Canine parvovirus is a highly contagious and destructive virus of dogs. Puppies (typically those 6 months old and younger) are especially susceptible to the disease particularly because the natural immunity provided in their mothers' milk may wear off before the puppies' own immune systems are mature enough to fight off the infection. If a puppy is exposed to the parvovirus during this gap in protection, it may become  infected.   An additional concern is that immunity provided by a mother's milk may interfere with an effective response to vaccination. This means even vaccinated puppies can be infected by parvovirus and develop the disease. To provide the best protection against parvovirus, a series of puppy vaccinations are administered.  To develop adequate protection, puppies should receive a dose of canine parvovirus vaccine at 8, 12 and 16 weeks of age, regardless of how many doses they received earlier in life.

Parvovirus is spread by direct dog-to-dog contact and contact with contaminated feces, environments or people. The virus can also contaminate kennel surfaces, food and water bowls, collars and leashes, and the hands and clothing of people who handle infected dogs. The virus is rather resistant to heat, cold, humidity, and drying, and can survive in the environment for long periods of time.

Symptoms of parvovirus are sudden onset of lethargy, fever, inappetence, vomiting and diarrhea (often bloody).  These signs lead to rapid dehydration and even death.  There is no cure for this disease. Treatment is supportive care until the dog’s immune system can fight off the infection.   This includes intravenous fluids to combat dehydration and replace electrolyte and fluid losses, controlling vomiting and diarrhea, and preventing secondary infections. Sick dogs should be hospitalized and isolated from other dogs to prevent spread of the virus.

Remember, this is a highly fatal disease so if your dog is showing any of these signs seek veterinary attention immediately.  Also, if you are unsure as to whether or not your dog has been properly vaccinated against parvovirus call your veterinarian.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

How Cold is Too Cold?

Many parts of the country are experiencing extremely cold weather this winter. A question I am always asked is “How cold is too cold for my pet to be outside”?

The rule of thumb is that your pet should not be left outside for longer than 15 minutes if it is colder than freezing (32° Fahrenheit) outside. If you are taking them out for a walk or run or participating in another type of aerobic activity they can be out longer. You need to use your best judgment. If you are too cold, chances are they are too! Many companies now make coats and booties to help protect pets from extreme temperatures and inclement weather so check into these products.

The animals that are the most susceptible to extreme cold are the very young, the very old, the very lean and those with very thin haircoats (like greyhounds). Very young animals don’t have a fully developed immune system making it hard for their bodies to thermoregulate. Very old animals typically have weakened immune systems making it easier for them to get cold and even sick. Lean pets don’t have enough fat stores to keep them warm and those with thin haircoats do not have enough hair for insulation. All of these animals can quickly become hypothermic and they are at risk of frostbite.

So, use common sense this winter and don’t leave your pets out in the cold.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information