This Stinks!

3698529055_b3116a0d70_m On the last "outs" of the evening, when our three dogs go for a last pee before we all head to bed, I saw PJ bolt into the bushes. She sprang out instantaneously, shaking her head. Foaming at the mouth, she clacked her jaws rapidly. I didn't have to open the door to know what had happened; she'd been skunked head on.

I happen to rather enjoy a light whiff of distant skunk but fresh and in large quantities it is vile - seeping through closed doors and windows, filling the house with a stench that lingers.

How do you cope?

First: Bathe your dog. Anything that cuts grease works because the skunk spray is oil-based, so break up that oil and you break up the stink. I grabbed the grease-fighting dish washing soap in our kitchen, girded my olfactory loins, then stepped outside.

If a smell can hit you like an oncoming car, that smell did. I gagged. PJ gagged. Wyatt and Pip stayed far away. I took PJ to the faucet and bathed her, making sure to avoid getting soap in her eyes, then I rinsed, rinsed, rinsed. Both she and I stopped gagging but we were nowhere near done.

Now, reasonably destinky, I took her in a direct line to our upstairs bathtub with a handheld sprayer to do a second bath with warmer water and better lighting. For this one I used shampoo designed to remove skunk stink. There are also liquids, sprays and powders. I've had good luck with a variety of products--here's a selection: Skunk Odor Removers

If you live in a skunky area, having one of these on hand is right up there with having flashlights and Band-Aids in the house.

After that, I Febrezed the house, washed my clothing, and opened the windows. Then I went to bed, waking up in the wee hours to repeat the Febrezing. (Febreze has the ASPCA Seal of Approval as safe to use around dogs and cats.) By dawn, it was bearable again.

If you don't have any pre-made product, here is a DIY option:

  • 1 quart 3 percent hydrogen peroxide
  • 1/4 cup baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon liquid soap or dish washing liquid
  • Mix these together and soak the victim thoroughly. (This may lighten the hair of dark dogs a bit.)
  • Be sure to use this mixture immediately after it is created, as it is unstable.
  • Rinse with tap water afterward, and repeat if necessary.
  • For spray in the eyes, flush with water as soon as possible.


The old standby: Tomato juice was probably chosen because it is acidic and acid does impact oil. But it isn't very strong and so isn't very effective.

With the endless rain here in New Hampshire, the smell lingers--on our back stoop, by the bushes, on the dog. It will fade, with time. And yes, PJ will, no doubt, do this again. Dogs are no more deterred by a bad experience that follows a fun one than say, people are by hangovers. Both species have a tendency to go out and do it again.

Here is another dog getting skunked. The skunk shows great restraint, IMO.

Photo from Sweet-N-Sassy's photostream.

--Sarah Wilson, MySmartPuppy.com
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Sarah Wilson is a pet behavior specialist, author, media personality, and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex. Sarah's books include, "Dogology", "My Smart Puppy", and "Good Owners, Great Dogs", all available now.

Is Your Pet Fat?

We have talked about pet diet and weight problems on this blog before, however, I wanted to take a minute to revisit the topic and show you what we are talking about when evaluating your pet’s weight. In general, when your veterinarian assesses your pet’s weight, they are taking into consideration age, breed and what we call “body condition”. Body condition takes into consideration the padding/thickness of fat on your dog and our ability to palpate boney prominences, muscle mass, body contours and sometimes abdominal organs. Based on these parameters your pet will be given a body condition score based on a scale of 1-5 or 1-9, depending on which scale your veterinarian prefers.

Pet-scale

These pictures are used by most veterinarians to help show owners what each “score” looks like and why. On the 1-5 scale a score of 3 is ‘ideal’ while on the 1-9 scale 4-5 is ideal. I prefer the 1-9 scale as is allows for some more subtle differences and does not jump form ideal to obese as fast. Have a look at each scoring system and see where you think your pet is. Most pet owners are very surprised find that their pet is actually obese.  If your pet is far from ideal, consider contacting your veterinarian regarding weight loss options. A diet can be specifically calculated for your pet using your current food or you can change to one specific for weight loss.

You can see the 9-point scale at Purina.com.

--Dr. Hamilton
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Dr. Hamilton is an oncology resident at Michigan State's Animal Cancer Care Clinic and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Skip the Knife--Try Shock Wave Therapy

Shock-gun In recent years a new treatment method called Extracorporeal Shock Wave Therapy (ESWT) has been available to veterinary patients after showing promising results in humans. Although it sounds a bit scary, the shock waves are actually high-energy, focused sound waves that speed healing of a range of problems including bone fractures, ligament injuries, and even arthritis. Because doctors can skip the scalpel with this treatment method, patients do not develop additional scar tissue which is often a painful side effect to surgery.

ESWT was first used for human patients in the early 1990s. By the latter part of this decade veterinarians began utilizing these sound waves for treating musculoskeletal disorders in horses with excellent results. Riding on the wave of this success, experimental treatment then began in dogs suffering from orthopedic conditions. In 2003 a survey of veterinarians that were using ESWT in dogs found that about 70 percent of their clients reported a “remarkable” response.

While formal studies on the canine population are currently limited, ESWT may likely benefit your dog if they suffer from osteoarthritis, hip dysplasia, or tendonitis. Results appear strongest for injuries to the shoulders, back, and hips. ESWT is also used to treat another highly common injury in dogs: cruciate ligament tears. For this affliction, ESWT may be used to speed healing from surgical treatment or, in some cases, as a substitute for surgery altogether. Also, ESWT can be used either alone or in conjunction with other types of therapies like hydrotherapy and acupuncture.

The procedure itself can be painful so dogs are usually placed under anesthesia or heavy sedation before the shock waves are administered. Most dog owners notice marked improvement within a week of treatment. A second round of shock waves is typically needed a few weeks later then annual or biannual treatments may be performed to maintain good results.

If you think ESWT could help your dog, consult your veterinarian. Before shock wave therapy can be used on your pet a thorough physical examination must be performed. Each patient also must be healthy enough to receive anesthesia. Although ESWT is generally considered safe, it is important to remember it is still an experimental procedure.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Have a Happy Fourth

On behalf of everyone at Wag Reflex, have a great Fourth of July weekend.

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Photo from Somethin' Else's photostream.

--Spanno

Don't Ingnore Insect Bites

3635227523_3f531e8f7a_m Recently, readers received a reminder from Dr.Hinson about the dangers of summer heat. When dealing with the summer, there is another common seasonal problem for pets--insect bites. While usually not fatal, insect bites can have serious consequences. Most often, dogs, and to a lesser extent cats, are bitten or stung on the face by insects (such as bees) that they were trying to bite. When this happens, your pet may initially yelp. Most of the time, a very small sting or bite is barely noticed on their face or neck due to its small size and most owners think nothing of it. However, within an hour the pets face may become greatly swollen, to the point where they can hardly open their eyes. In some cases they may even have difficulty breathing.

A common challenge in evaluating pets with a “suddenly swollen face” is determining if the problem is truly caused by an insect bite or a snake bite. Locating two puncture sites would be more consistent with a snake bite; however, this is not always an easy task. Most dogs have a lot of fur and the swelling at the site of the bite complicates the evaluation a bit. In some cases, the cause of swelling cannot be determined and a diagnosis has to be made on response to symptomatic treatment and blood work abnormalities.

If you ever find that your pet suddenly has a swollen face contact your veterinarian immediately. In most cases they will see you right away because of the urgent nature of the problem. Some pets may need to spend the day for observation, while others will need longer care at your veterinarians.

Photo from Mad Mag's photostream.

--Dr. Hamilton
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Dr. Hamilton is an oncology resident at Michigan State's Animal Cancer Care Clinic and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Cat Urination Blues

3104340144_c19ed3f41e There are many reasons why cats will urinate outside of the litter box. This post is not going to talk about the reasons so much as trying to address the importance of seeking help early in the process.

The likelihood of a cat inappropriately urinating is about 10% for each cat that you own. So that means if you have three cats there is a 30% chance, five cats 50% chance and 10 cats 100% chance that someone will not be using the litter box. The duration of the problem also has a lot to do with the chance of being able to fix the problem. If the problem has been going on one month or less there is a good chance that we can fix the inappropriate elimination. If the problem has been taking place for 3 months, it is possible to help. If the problem has been persisting for 6 months or more, it is almost impossible to resolve the problem 100%.

When you go see the veterinarian, your visit will include a complete history--so plan on answering a lot of questions--and a physical exam. This is so that the veterinarian has a better chance of determining the triggering event. To help decide if the problem is medical or behavioral your veterinarian may recommend a complete diagnostic work-up that can include blood work, urinalysis with a urine culture (to look for infection), x-rays, and possibly an ultrasound of the bladder. Once the work up is complete the veterinarian will be able to make a treatment plan for your cat. This is not something that will get better overnight. Our goal is always to stop the inappropriate behavior as soon as possible. In order to do that you may go home with a long list of things to do to start the process.

To help your cat your veterinarian may prescribe/recommend several different things for you to do at once. He/she will address any medical problems as well as give you tips on how to change the litter box, household issues, and behavior problems. One litter box tip to try and prevent inappropriate urination in a multi-cat household is to make sure that you have one litter box for every cat that you own plus an extra one and keep all of them very clean. Most importantly, if you are having a problem with your cat’s urination behavior see your vet right away! The longer you wait the less likely that the problem will be able to be resolved.

Photo of a litterbox loving cat from Laruen Paulsen's photostream.

--Dr. Wohlwend
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Dr. Wohlwend is a small animal veterinarian in Renton, WA and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information

Taking Cat Ownership to the Next Level

Riana Van Nieuwenhuizen of South Africa shares her home with 11 cats and two snacks dogs. The cats include four cheetahs, five lions, and two tigers. She bought  the cats to save the species' from extinction, so she's not completely insane. But still, I can't see this ending well.

Counter

Sleeping

Read more about the cats at Mail Online.

--Spanno

Potty Training Puppies and Kittens

Training-pads Bringing home your new pet for the first time is very exciting but, along with the excitement, comes the daunting task of house training. For some young pets (most kittens) housetraining is almost instinctual, but if your new kitten does not take to the litterbox, there are a few things to check. Be sure to have the litterbox in an easily accessible, quiet location. Also, your kitten’s sense of smell is sensitive and your kitten may find scented litter too strong. Switch to an unscented litter and, to keep the litter smelling fresh, use a litter odor remover like Hartz Nodor.

Puppies need a little more training. Some things to remember when starting:

1. Do not leave a puppy without access to a potty area during the day for longer than your pup’s age in months plus one (in hours). This means a 2-month-old puppy should not be left for more than three hours without a chance to relieve itself. Puppy training pads can provide a suitable area when your puppy needs to be left alone.
2. When you are at home and awake, take your puppy outside at least once per hour. Watch your puppy for signs that once per hour is too long; some young puppies cannot wait this long. Puppy training pads can help while your puppy is loose in the house.
3. Give lots of praise when your puppy potties in the right area.

With a little guidance, you can have your new companion house-trained and a welcomed addition to your family.

--Dr. Melinda, Hartz R&D Team
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Dr. Melinda is the resident veterinarian at Hartz and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Basketball-Playing Dog Has Some Skills

I use to think that despite my poor basketball skills, I'm at least better than a dog. Now I'm not so sure. Zeke here might be able to teach me a few things.


Zeke playing ball with his dad. From With Leather.

--Spanno

Watch Out for Ticks

DeerTickFemale Lyme disease is a bacterial disease spread by ticks. While it is most prevalent in the Northeastern U.S., it has been found in almost every state. The name comes from the place where the disease was first reported, Lyme, Connecticut. Lyme disease affects people and dogs. It is rare in other domestic animals.

Lyme disease is caused by the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi. It is transmitted by the bite of ticks, most commonly the black-legged deer tick (Ixodes species). Wooded, brushy areas outdoors are likely locations for these ticks. The tick attaches to a host and feeds on it’s blood. While attached, it can spread Lyme disease through it’s saliva. Research has shown that in most cases, the disease is not transmitted until the tick has been attached to the host for 48 to 72 hours. Lyme disease is not spread directly from one person to another or from a dog to a person.

Symptoms of Lyme disease are rash, fever, lethargy, swollen lymph nodes, loss of appetite, swollen joints and limping. Some infected dogs do not show any outward symptoms however, the disease can also cause inflammation of the kidneys, and can damage the heart and nervous system in later stages. Some cases of Lyme disease in dogs can be detected on a physical exam, but tests of blood or joint fluid are often needed.

Lyme disease is treated with antibiotics like doxycycline. Additional medications may be prescribed to help with pain and inflammation. The course of treatment is usually a minimum of 6 weeks but may be as long as 12 weeks. It is possible for the organism to remain in the body long-term leading to periodic flare-ups.

Whenever possible avoid areas likely to be infested with ticks.  If you do frequent tick-infested areas, check yourself and your dog carefully for ticks once you leave. Your veterinarian can recommend some excellent tick control products that are safe for dogs.

A vaccination against Lyme disease is available for dogs. It is recommended for dogs living in areas where the disease is prevalent. Check with your veterinarian to see if your dog should be vaccinated.

Photo courtesy of Pediatric Associates of Connecticut.

--Dr. Hinson
---------------------
Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Mystery Saluki from Saudi Arabia Found in California

Mystery-saluki It seems like it would be easy to find the owner of a certain dog discovered wandering about 30 miles north of San Diego. He's a Saluki, which isn't common; he's microchipped; and he lived in Saudi Arabia with the US military.

Unfortunately, the microchip revealed nothing about the dog's owner or even the dog's name. The Department of Defense denies knowledge of the dog, as do military veterinarians working in Saudi Arabia.

The dog is neutered and healthy, so someone was taking care of him before he was found. And with the dog's military service overseas, you'd think someone would know something. I doubt they've had THAT many Salukis working in Saudi Arabia.

My guess is that the dog is a spy.

Read more about him in the Seattle Times.

--Spanno

Great Upside-Down Smile

Shandi is a very playful Lab/Rhodesian Ridgeback mix.

3652781722_b95b8bcd30

Photo courtesy of tropic paws' photostream.

--Spanno

Training on the Fly

The Sunset Cruise headed out of Little Dix Bay and our group was on it. As we turned toward “Bitter End” the resort at the north end of Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands, a colony of Laughing Gulls tagged along behind.

Some find these raucous, back-headed birds beautiful; others consider them “sea rats;” as a trainer, I saw them as an unusual (and unusually noisy) training opportunity.

Bird

Side note: I do not encourage wild animals to interact with me unless doing so poses no potential harm to them or to me. In this case, despite Hitchcock’s brilliantly terrifying movie “The Birds,” the only risk these gulls pose is pilfering from your plate if you leave it untended. This being the case, and because the gulls were already well aware of what goodies the boat carried, I decided to see what we could accomplish.

Grabbing a handful of leftover crackers, I started tossing bits – arcing them up and back, away from the boat. The birds dove and spun but, more often than not, had to land in the water to grab their prize. Entertaining as this was, it slowed down the process -- how could I do rapid repetitions if the birds had to land, eat, and then take off?

So, I decided to add in a simple cue that told the gulls that a treat was about to be launched. Stretching my arm out parallel to the water, I then dropped my hand suddenly toward my body, paused for a second, and then tossed.

The birds quickly figured out that a rapid hand drop meant food was forthcoming, just as Pavlov’s dogs had learned that a bell meant dinner was on its way. When I dropped my hand, the birds lined up in formation – anticipating my next toss.

From that position, I could easily toss treats that were grabbed “on the fly.” Perfect. Now I could move to rapid fire rewarding which allowed me to start shortening my tosses. Instead of arcing back and away from the boat, I tossed them just a few feet back. Some gulls hung back but a few were willing to trade proximity for food.

Seeing that I had lost a few, I upped the ante by tossing out bits of spring roll. The gulls noticeably intensified their efforts – as we all do when something we value is offered.

Getting them taking a treat from my hand (back to crackers because they were a larger and more obvious target) was just a matter of tossing treats progressively closer to me and then holding one big one out while I stood very still - waiting. And that worked, as you can see.

The principles of training apply whether you are training a Laughing Gull or your grinning Golden: give clear signals, reward frequently, start slow then work toward your goal in small steps, have fun. These gulls reminded me to do all of this and gave me a special vacation memory, as well.

--Sarah Wilson, MySmartPuppy.com
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Sarah Wilson is a pet behavior specialist, author, media personality, and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex. Sarah's books include, "Dogology", "My Smart Puppy", and "Good Owners, Great Dogs", all available now.

WETNoz Introduces High-End Design for Pets

Wetnoz-bowl If you have even a marginally modern kitchen, those cheap ceramic bowls you got a PetSmart a few years ago probably stand out like an NBA player in Tokyo. I'm not knocking the bowls--up until recently you didn't have much of choice and they did the job. Heck, even I have them. But now we have a choice. We can replace that mismatched set with some contemporary design.

A new brand of pet products called WETNoz is shaking up the look of bowls, dishes, and even treat jars. The designs are an eye-catching mix of ergonomics and aesthetics. They're like little pieces of art.

Everything is a tad pricey but, really, what did you expect for something that looks this good? The real shock is when you realize that your dog eats out of a nicer bowl than you.

--Spanno

Even Vets Need Puppy Training Help

Moose We have a new puppy in our house. Her name is Moose and she is crazy. We joyously welcomed her into our home two months ago and have been running circles ever since. Unfortunately, a veterinary license does not guarantee proficiency at puppy training. I can tell you all about vaccines, deworming, nutrition, pediatric disease, etc.--but when it comes to dealing with a mouthful of super sharp teeth constantly clenching onto any piece of fabric that is not glued to my skin I'm not sure what to do.

I have my clueless head in all the behavior books, my finger on the trigger of the squirt bottle and my mouth shut tight so I don’t teach our young daughter expletives. I am sure she has learned a few anyway these past few months.

Puppies are constant motion. Chewing, ripping, shredding, tearing. Two months ago, her baby teeth didn’t do much damage to the multitude of things she wanted to chew. These days, her destructive power has kicked up a gear and now in the two seconds it takes for us to react, the marks are permanent. Or a piece is missing. Or the whole thing is gone. I know it is common knowledge that puppies are destructive and I used to acknowledge my clients complaints with “Yes, puppies are a lot of work.” But now, when they tell me about the destruction, disruptions and overall delinquency, I understand. I truly understand! And while I can not buy them a new guitar, I certainly can lend them shoulder to cry on. And a trainer referral. I guess I could lend them my guitar, but some of it is missing.

--Dr. Olson
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Dr. Olson practices small animal medicine in Denver, CO and is a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information

Why Does My Pet Shed So Much?

Hairy-cat Hair grows from tiny roots called follicles. Hair follicles contain both a long individual strand of hair (primary hair) and multiple short, fine hairs (secondary hairs). The process of shedding in cats and dogs occurs because each individual hair goes through a growth cycle and is then released. After release, it is replaced with a new hair and the process repeats.

In pets, many factors can affect shedding. Most commonly we think of the effect of day length and temperature on coats. Shorter days and cooler temperatures stimulate the follicles and result in a thicker coat. Conversely, longer days and warmer temperatures lead to increased shedding with the cycle peaking around mid-summer.

Many of our pets today live inside throughout the year, and they are not subjected to a variety of temperature or light changes. Instead of experiencing a large difference between the highest and lowest times of shedding, these cats and dogs tend to shed at a consistently high level year round. This pattern of coat turnover requires more attention through the entire year instead of only during peak shedding times.

One key in the management of shedding is good grooming. Many groomers offer shedding treatments that help reduce hair turnover for a period of time. Frequent trips to the groomer for routine bathing and brushing will help remove hairs in the final stage of the growth cycle and lessen the amount that is shed into the pet’s environment. In between grooming visits, brushing at home also helps.

On the nutrition front, the goal is to provide the nutrients necessary to keep the hair as healthy as possible and prevent premature hair separation. Hair growth may demand 30% of total protein intake, so an adequate amount of high level protein is important. Certain B vitamins like biotin and folic acid play a role in the formation of hair. Key minerals and fatty acids also help nourish the coat. A deficiency in any of these essential nutrients can result in poor coat quality, excess shedding, and slower hair re-growth.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Snuggle Time

Freddie and Chica share a moment. I guess there's nothing like snuggling up to a warm Vizsla.

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Photo courtesy of bluecherry74's photostream.

--Spanno

How to Keep Your Cat's Litterbox Smelling Fresh

Hartz-nodor The joys of cat ownership come with one major downside--the litterbox. While there is not much one can do to get away from this necessity, there are some things you can do to help keep your home odor free.

Litter Choice
Using a good quality clumping litter will not only help you during cleaning but will help trap odors. Know that some cats do not like heavily perfumed litter. Other litter varieties have surfaced recently; pine, wheat, and corn litters as well as crystal litters are available. Trial and error may be in order to determine which works best for you and your cat.

Keep It Clean
In addition to daily scooping, litter (even clumping litter) needs to be dumped periodically and the litterbox needs to be scrubbed with bleach and water.

Keep It Fresh
After scooping (between cleanings) remember to top off the litter with new litter. Not only will this keep the litter “fresh” for your cat, but also will keep odors down. A litter deodorizer can also help in-between scrubbings. A product like Hartz Nodor will eliminate the odor without covering-up the odor with a heavy scent. Remember that a cat’s nose is a sensitive organ.

With a little effort on your part, your house can remain odor free.

--Dr. Melinda, Hartz R&D Team
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Dr. Melinda is the resident veterinarian at Hartz and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Dealing with the Summer Heat

Miracool-mat Most people see the summer months as a time to get outside with the family and do a variety of recreational activities. Whether it’s hiking in the woods or swimming at the park, the entire family can be included, even your four-legged friend.

As the weather begins to break and spring turns into summer, dog owners are advised to use moderation when resuming their outdoor activities. Most veterinarians will tell you that dogs who lead a sedentary lifestyle during the off-season are in a high risk group when spring and summer time comes around.

1. Limit Activity and Plan Accordingly
Moderation is the key to properly conditioning dogs for summertime activities. You would never think of going out and running 5 miles the first time you go running. Instead, you would start slowly and over the course of months you would build up to your ultimate goal. The same principles hold true when exercising your dogs. Limit your initial activities and gradually increase the duration over time.

It is also important to plan your activities during the cooler times of day. Early morning and late afternoon are ideal times to get out and enjoy time with your dog. If you’re thinking of take your dog for a daily walk, early morning is the best time. Eight hours of the sun pounding down of the sidewalks and asphalt can really make it uncomfortable for your four-legged friend. Your dog’s pads can quickly burn when exposed to the hot blacktop.

If your dog has long or double coat, a summer haircut can help dissipate body heat. Make sure when you bring your dog to the groomer he/she does not cut your dog’s hair too short as this will greatly increase the chance of sunburn. Just like humans, dogs can be burned by the sun so it’s important to limit your activity to times when the sun is most intense. Typically the midday (between 11 am and 3 pm) is the time when the sun is at its highest point and its rays are the most harmful to you and your dog. Like humans, dogs with lighter colored coats tend to be fairer skinned and more sensitive to the sun’s harmful rays.

2. Keeping Your Dog Cool
When a humans get hot we sweat. It’s through sweat that we are able to cool our bodies. Dogs perspire through their mouths by panting. The hotter they get the more they pant. Even though dogs don’t sweat and benefit from the thermal transfer of heat through sweat, you can help your dog overcome the effects of heat by keeping him in an area with moving air. The air blowing across his body will help keep him cool through radiation and conduction.

Shade, Shade, Shade!  Be sure there are trees, a picnic table, a covered patio, etc around you so your dog can retreat to if he wants to. Dogs know what shade is, and they will absolutely find it if it exists.

You need to make sure your dog has a cold source of fresh water the entire time he is outside. If you are going to be out for a long time, you need to make sure there’s enough water to last. And in the heat you will need a lot of water.

There are products designed specifically to help keep your pet cool.  Miracool Mats is a unique, reusable, cooling pad that helps keep dogs cool on hot summer days. Water-activated crystals keep mat cool for days with one 30-minute soaking in cold water.

Kool Collars are also an extremely effective, unique dog cooling product. The Kool Collar uses melting ice to act as sweat on your dog. It's easy, durable and extremely effective.

3. Recognizing Heat-Related Problems

The onset of heat stroke can be quite subtle and difficult to detect. Your dog may slowly progress from heat stress to heat exhaustion and finally to heat stroke. In addition to an increase in the dog’s body temperature from a normal temperature of 101.3, the signs of heat related problems are labored breathing, excessive panting, bright red gums, fatigue sometimes leading to collapse and even unconsciousness. It is important to get your dog out of the heat as soon as possible at the first signs of heat related problems.

It’s also advisable to wet your dog down with cool, tepid water or applying cool towels directly to his body to help dissipate the heat. Please note, you DO NOT want to bath your dog in ice cold water. This will cause your dog’s blood vessels to restrict and will cause a slower recovery time. In the event of an emergency, seek medical attention for your dog immediately, even if he seems to have fully recovered.

--Dr. Hinson
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Dr. Hinson is a mixed animal veterinarian in Tampa, FL and a regular contributor to Wag Reflex.

Disclaimer Regarding Veterinary Information   

Daddy and Daughter Dapple Dachshunds

Dapple dachshund Bailey nuzzles her dad, Tucker. I love the variety of colors dachshunds come in.

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Photo from Dorian Mode's photostream.

--Spanno

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